After a post-pandemic season of dopamine fashion, the Spring/Summer 2024 collection, which debuted on the runway last fall, was surprisingly calm. Their monochromatic palette replaces bright colors and shows a shift towards an elegant, yet minimalist silhouette. This is reflected in the wide-shouldered jackets, trousers, pencil skirts and shorts of fashion leaders such as Saint Laurent, Gucci and Loewe.
Understated clothing opens a window of opportunity for fine jewelry. While fashion embraces the understated vibe of New York in the 90s of the 20th century (many reference the cool style of the late Caroline Bessette Kennedy), jewelers are adding bold gold, silver, and diamond jewelry to add a modern twist to the look. Here are three trends that stood out on the runway.
Extra-Long Earrings
Last year it was king, and this year it was trombone. Gravity has made earrings longer and thinner, so much so that 4 inches has become a particularly popular length. It’s undoubtedly the fastest-selling style for the pre-holiday party season, but it’s also beautiful in the spring with a plain white shirt and jeans. Model Kaia Gerber proved this last July at Valentino’s haute couture show, when she wore a pair of extra-long chandelier earrings over a white shirt.
In September, Los Angeles-based fashion house Badgley Mischka unveiled a ruffled evening gown with crystal tassels at the shoulders for spring, showcasing the perfect combination of extra length and a bare neckline. Since then, several fashion events have seen the launch of new collections, with models wearing earrings long enough to glove the top of the ribcage. For the ultimate glamour, Yeprem’s Y-Couture and Reign Supreme diamond drop earrings are probably the longest on the market. They can be worn in pairs or asymmetrically, with the shorter version being worn on the other ear.
On the runway, Fendi was one of the brands that adopted the long, sinuous chain of gemstones, part of the collection of influential designer Delfina Delettrez-Fendi. Jeweler Octavia Elizabeth keeps coming up with new versions of her 4-inch single-chain gem-set earrings as they keep selling out. London-based designer Nadine Aysoy has similar multi-coloured sapphire drop earrings, each with a different cut.
Jeweler Irene Neuwirth’s one-of-a-kind opal tassel is 3.5 inches long and is perfect for everyday makeup and evening looks. The same goes for the beautiful 14-karat gold Hanger and Transformer earrings from new Ukrainian brand Guzema, as well as the diamond-trimmed chain tassels, which are now available in the US. For a more sparkling diamond, opt for the Cherika tassel from New York-based brand Sanjay Kasliwal, which is part of the gemstone palace of the Kasliwal dynasty in Jaipur. Adorned with emeralds as well as rose and pear-shaped diamonds, these earrings fall below the collar and are the perfect way to add evening glamour to the simplest of shirts.
Power Cuffs
Cuffs have been a slow-burning trend for the past year or so, with early runway looks focusing on a bunch of plain but shiny metal. Now, designers are ditching these in favor of artistic shapes and huge proportions. Examples include Schiaparelli’s Brancusi-style gold bracelet (which is much lighter than it looks due to its ceramic composition) and the large amorphous engraved silver bracelet adorned on Loewe models. The latter is a design collaboration with American artist Lynda Benglis, her long silver cuffs from French fashion house Chloé, which feature wavy metal ridges at length, and Tom Ford’s black and gold textured cuffs, worn alone by models on the runway, in an 80s style rather than as a stack.
Artist jewelers such as Ute Decker have created voluminous bracelets, including her Orbit design, in which a slender metal band wraps around the wrist, like the sun. Despite the large scale of the piece, it weighs lightly due to her use of negative space. Both Ileana Makri’s bracelet and Giorgio Bulgari’s Giorgio B product are impactful: the black enamel Goccia bracelet pierced with rose gold studs, while Makri’s titanium design is embellished with black diamond baguette stones in a raised bezel setting for an industrial effect. Makri also produces large twisted gold shapes, such as the Blaze bracelet, for a warmer look. Equally impressive are Briony Raymond’s vintage-inspired Aurora diamond-encrusted gold bracelet (a bold statement piece) and Sidney Garber’s ribbed gold bracelet that is 1.4 inches wide for a comfortable fit. There are also fine jewellery options, such as Buccellati’s Dream Bracelet, which includes an enamel Capri design and a series of 1.75-inch gold bracelets embellished with diamonds and the brand’s signature rigato engraving technique. While both styles have closures, they both embody cuff sizes. Margot McKinney is another well-known source of eye-catching and unique bracelets with brightly colored gemstones.
Thin Necklace
While the wrists and ears are the embellishments of the season’s most daring jewels, necklaces – or more accurately, chokers – are going in the opposite direction, becoming very discreet. The short, thick gold chain necklace of 2023 has been replaced by an elongated gold or diamond band that wraps high around the neck like a ribbon. Designer Bibi van der Velden loves this look not only in her Smoke collection, but also in her own right. On the runway, Dior opted for a simple gold ring set with small pearls, Valentino opted for the logo motif, Chanel opted for a golden camellia, and Celine Creative Director Hedi Slimane presented a tough, youthful look with a heart-shaped rope choker.
Jeweller Diane Kordas also embodies this vibe, with a string of pavé-set diamond-set spikes hanging from the front of her leather ribbon choker, shaped like a dagger. Less dangerous is the rainbow sapphire torque on her gold ring. Fope’s famous Flex’it gold necklace is now available in an ultra-short version. Meanwhile, Jemma Wynne has several gold collars in her Escalator collection, which are slightly longer in length and sit just above the throat.
Platinum Born’s platinum necklace is subtly faceted to give it the sparkle of a diamond, but for a true diamond version, there’s Suzanne Kalan’s signature rectangular design. New York-based brand Larkspur & Hawk’s diamond choker is aimed at the bridal market, but it’s not limited to that. Anne Sisteron has several diamond or white topaz chokers, either worn high above the neck or just above the throat, as well as pearls and turquoise models to create a trans-seasonal look that takes us into spring.